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Summer salad: It’s what’s for dinner

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Let’s get one thing clear. I am not one of those salad girls.

You know that girl. The one who picks at lettuce leaves while the guys dig into their steaks. The one who skips dessert or will “have one little bite.” I am not her.

I say that because I feel a little defensive about salads. When people ask me – as they often ask food writers – what I cook for myself at home, I can see the wave of disappointment cross their faces.

A salad? Not a dainty plate of leaves, I hastily add. A big, satisfying salad full of cheese, nuts, seasonal vegetables and, um, whatever’s languishing in the fridge.

So what makes a good dinner salad? Like any great dish, it calls for balance: Color, sweetness, saltiness, crunch and a little bit of fat. (A really good dressing certainly helps.) And note what I didn’t say: Lettuce. You do not need a bed of greens to make a salad.

Case in point: One of my favorite combinations is grilled shrimp with avocado, mango, red onion and cilantro. It’s a salad I put together one night when I needed more ways to eat champagne mangoes, the unbelievably luscious variety.

The dish has everything: Protein, color and a balance of creamy and sharp, bright flavors. (It also has enough fat – good fat – to make it satisfying.) The dressing is a squeeze of lemon, a drizzle of good olive oil and a sprinkle of sea salt.

This is dinner in five minutes. Take that, Rachael Ray.

Of course, the color and the particular sources of sweet and salty depend on what you like and what's available. (I tend to put fruit in everything, but that might not be to your taste.) And naturally, salad ingredients don't have to be raw. Grilled chicken or steak, boiled potatoes, roasted peppers or pears and grilled asparagus are made for salads.

So are whole grains such as quinoa or bulgur wheat, which can help a salad feel more like a meal. You can prep any of those quickly, or use up leftovers that might otherwise get thrown away.

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